Design studio of Dorothea Lee

Sneaker FAQs

Like all my other projects, I’ve thought a lot about the whys and details that go into a custom pair of sneakers, and I have shared some of my more frequent responses below. If you have a question that isn’t answered here, please reach out to me! I want everyone to have an awesome experience and come away confidently with kicks that completely resonate.

What material do you use?

I use two different brands of permanent fabric markers to achieve a wide range of colors. One is the top performer when tested in a review against other brands after a wash and iron. The other was not part of the same test, but is a Japanese brand intended for t-shirts, so my hope is that they anticipated the potential exposure to water/washing and it holds up. So far my personal sneakers using the Japanese brand has held up fine, and I made them end of Dec ‘20.

Why not acrylic paints?

Some artists have used acrylics and they dry waterproof, but I have made a choice not to use them for two reasons:

  1. I have seen them crack where there is flex, and I don’t want that appearance to ruin the illustrations, become a site for flaking, and catch dirt.
  2. Acrylics create a texture that feels like it seals the fabric from its original breathability, and I don’t like sweaty feet! hahaha

What kind of sneakers do you work with?

Because I care about conscious consumption and want these to last as long as possible, I encourage each person to take their time choosing a white canvas shoe that really suits them in style and comfort. The brand does not matter, but fabric is the key material since I want the illustrations to last and I have seen markers bleed or age weirdly on leather and plastics. The whiter the fabric, the truer the colors will be as well, but sometimes a natural white can work depending on the subject of the illustration. I always encourage sending me a link of the shoe being considered before purchasing if there is any doubt!

What about laces or velcro?

The biggest preference is for slip-ons because it maximizes the area to draw, but I have worked around laces and velcro. The things to remember are fabric area and seams. Seams will break up the illustration and depending on its depth or spacing will need to be incorporated into the design, and laces/velcro tend to minimize the potential height for an illustration as well (we are often working within a mere inch of space or less!). I always suggest sending me a link of the sneaker you are considering so I can spot any potential difficulties before purchase!

Are the sneakers washable?

Some sneakers are advertised as washable, and with white shoes I understand the concern for keeping them looking good! While I personally don’t know of many that can take a lot of those cycles and still hold up their shapes well, I believe the materials I use (permanent and intended for the fabric of the shoes—see above) should hopefully hold up to whatever the sneaker can handle within reason. Almost nothing can hold up to the strength of sunlight over a long period of time, so I wouldn’t store them in a window, nor would I go hiking with them because I would never treat custom art to abuse! If the whiteness is something of a great concern to preserve, we can discuss that in the design planning to make sure it is minimal and/or in the areas less likely to get stained. I’ve also used an old stiff toothbrush to brush out some of the dry dirt I’ve accumulated in the fabric of my shoes to some success.

What’s the process?

  1. You fill out a preliminary questionnaire to begin discussions on design and tease out all your preferences.
  2. We schedule a chat to make sure we are completely on the same page and also give us an opportunity for brainstorming anything further to make the kicks special and uniquely you!
  3. You order the shoes so that you have complete control over the type, source, and price, and have it shipped directly to me for expediency.
  4. I send you a color palette to review and approve, based on our discussions and my markers.
  5. After receiving the shoes, making sure we are on the same page, and getting colors approved, design can begin!
  6. When I’m pretty much done, I’ll send photos for review in case there are any last-minute fixes. Since the markers are permanent and we’ve had multiple check-ins prior, this is a safety round but usually winds up as an approval stage.
  7. After approval, I calculate the total design fee + taxes + shipping for balance due. See cost question for more details.
  8. When payment is received, I ship them to you and send you the tracking number. Your custom kicks are complete!

What will it cost?

I believe transparency and complete comfort in the entire process creates a happy customer and resonating designs, so here is a breakdown of what you can expect:

  • Base price of shoe is totally within your control, including the shipping you choose to my address
  • Design fee is currently $125-200 pending complexity
  • Shipping to your address will be the lowest commercial rate (cheaper than retail) available, that also has insurance coverage of the design fee + the cost of the base shoe. One pair has not exceeded $13 so far, but USPS has a temporary increase on shipping so I will have to see how long this trends.
  • Sales tax is calculated based on your address and the total of design fee + shipping as required by law

I currently accept Zelle to keep costs low and avoid crazy fees!

What timeframe can I expect?

So far on average, from sending the questionnaire to shipping out the finished pair, it has taken around 1 month. It also depends on the feedback or design turnaround for each step in the process. I always say life happens and is more important than a pair of shoes (I can imagine some sneakerheads may object to this ;) ), so if there is a delay for some reason there is also grace—for both sides! BUT, if there is a special deadline for these shoes it would be a good idea to discuss this upfront to make sure it’ll all go smoothly.

Please note: USPS has begun intentional delays of ~3 weeks, so this will greatly impact timing. I have also moved to a waitlist format to ensure quality and a great experience for each person so please contact me to get your name on the list and I will reach out when it is your turn. I can still send out my questionairre and you can consult me for your sneaker choice or to send me the kicks to capitalize on a sale ahead of time—basically let's just get in touch and keep communications open and make it work! =)


sound good?

Ready to start this collaboration on your very own pair of custom kicks? I can’t wait to hear from you!